Posts Tagged ‘Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups’

Celebrate the Oscars with a Wine for each Best Picture Nomination by Keri Jackson Kunzle

Friday, February 24th, 2012

We’re celebrating the Oscars all weekend long at Maslow 6 Wine Shop. This year the Best Picture nominees all have ties to the U.S. or France, so we’re taking the opportunity to spotlight some of our favorite wines and introduce some new discoveries from both countries. We’ve chosen one wine for each film nominated for Best Picture, from Champagne to minerally whites to earthy reds to biodynamic wines, each representing the spirit of one of the films.

Stop by and try some of these incredible wines – a rotating selection will be open for tasting throughout the weekend. Then take home a bottle to enjoy during the ceremony.

Or call us to deliver a selection: www.maslow6.com

War Horse - Cousin-Leduc Vieilles Vignes VdT – Loire Valley, France ($28)
olivierHorse2War Horse celebrates the majestic beauty and dignity of horses, which are an important part of Olivier Cousin’s work. In his vineyards, he has eschewed tractors for three horses to help him cultivate the land and this bottle’s label depicts him with one of them. Of course, War Horse is also about surviving conflict and Cousin has been enmeshed in a very serious dispute with French authorities over the Appellation system and how he designates his wines. We and the New York wine community continue to support him in this fight, which has quite serious financial consequences. The wines, however, are the opposite of bureaucratic interference – grapes grown biodynamically, no added sulfites, no anything. This is 100% Cabernet Franc all about fruit and floral notes: Roses, plums, cedar, raspberry, cherries, and currants on the nose and the palate. The vines are 65 years old, which explains the complexity achieved in this wine.

The Descendants – St. Innocent Freedom Hill Chardonnay 2009 – Willamette Valley, Oregon ($26)

Family revelations and loss of innocence are the focus of this film, which made us think of this richly textured Chardonnay reminiscent of white Burgundies. Located in the foothills of the coastal range 10 miles southwest of Salem, Oregon, Freedom Hill Vineyard sits at an elevation of 425 feet above sea level. The St. Innocent Chardonnay portion is planted with the French ‘Dijon’ clones that are used in Burgundy. Evoking some characteristics of Meursault (stony minerality but with a sumptuous texture), and some characteristics of Chablis (ripe fruit and a bit of roundness from ageing on the lees, but balanced with zesty minerality), it would be a perfect wine to sip on a warm Hawaiian evening.

Extremely Loud & Incredibly Close – Wolffer Estate Chardonnay 2009 – Long Island, New York ($18)
The vibrancy of today’s Tribeca is a far cry from the days after 9/11 and we have chosen a vivacious Long Island jewel to pair with this story of a curious child searching for clues left by his father on that fateful day. Wolffer Estate is a gorgeous vineyard with sustainable practices set on the South Fork of Long Island. Sharing some characteristics with Bordeaux including closeness to the Atlantic ocean, Wolffer’s goal is to show the Long Island terroir and at the same time produce elegant wines. This Chardonnay is not an over-oaked, over-blown version, but one with lively acidity and minerality. Pears, apricots, and citrus result in a vibrant very food-friendly chardonnay.

The Help – A Tribute to Grace 2009 – Santa Barbara, California ($50)graceLabel
For a film that celebrates the fortitude of women, we couldn’t think of a better wine than this biodynamic Grenache from Santa Barbara County. Winemaker Angela Osborne is from New Zealand and moved to California in 2006. Her “vineyard” which is really 3 rows she leases at the Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard, sits at 3200 feet above sea level and is quite barren: sand, brush, exposed rock. Arid and blazing hot in summertime, snow-laden and sleepy in the wintertime. The wine is named after her grandmother and Angela’s intention is to capture the spirit of grace in the wine too, which to her means staying as close to nature as humanly possible. Half the grapes are fermented with whole clusters, which are tread by foot twice a day(!) The remaining portion is de-stemmed and also receives the “gracedance”. A small portion is aged in new wood; most is neutral. It spends 16 months in barrel. The entire production is 2,244 bottles.

The Artist - Marcel Deiss Estate 2009 – Alsace, France ($20)
The artistry behind the Marcel Deiss Estate blend perfectly complements this unique black and white Oscar frontrunner. Jean-Michel Deiss believes that ‘terroir trumps grape’ given the right circumstances and this year a silent throwback might trump modern technology. Deiss’ philosophy is to let the terroir express itself via a range of varieties that are all grown together. Unusually, Deiss also harvests and vinifies them together too. The vines need to be old to really express what is there because time allows them to dig further and further into the soil. The soil needs to be deep enough too, which it is on the slopes where these vines are planted. This blend is seamless, focused and elegant – just like the world of this silent film.

Hugo – Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Clos de Venise 2010 ($40)
cheninGrapesJackyBlotThis richly textured Martin Scorsese film matches well with Loire Valley star Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups. Like Scorsese, Jacky is a preservationist and a bit of a throwback to simpler times. A wine broker previously, Jacky acquired about 8 hectares of 50 – 75 year old vines in 1989. These prized parcels belonged to families that could no longer cultivate the vines and so were entrusted them to Blot and his team. Yields are kept low, and he ploughs now instead of treating chemically, allowing the roots to descend deep into the limestone bedrock. Harvest is done by hand, and as late as possible. Beautiful minerality, richly textured, yet chalky, dry and a bit austere with flavors of lemon and honey. Gorgeous balance. We look forward to hosting Jacky at a special tasting for our Wine Club members on March 19 – call or email us if you would like to attend!

Midnight in Paris – Gérard Loriot Champagne NV – Champagne, France ($51)
When we thought of what we’d like to drink at midnight, or really anytime in Paris, we thought of Champagne! We couldn’t have said it better than John Gilman from View from the Cellar had: “I have become a very big fan of the non-vintage Brut bottling from Gérard Loriot, as its 100% pinot meunier cépage is fairly unique and the quality has been consistently excellent. The bouquet is young and very classy, as it jumps from the glass in a blend of tart orange, a beautiful base of soil, bread dough and a smoky top note. On the palate the wine is deep, full bodied, complex and still a bit bound up in its structure, with very refined mousse, superb focus and a very, very long and classy finish.” We’re sure Woody would approve.

Moneyball – Robert Foley ‘The Griffin’ 2009 – California ($35)
In this film, a scrappy baseball team with limited resources fields a team of undervalued players that stands up to the biggest spenders. Rich and concentrated, The Griffin drinks like a more expensive big California cult wine, but at a price that is still accessible. The blend is 50% Petite Syrah, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot. Lots of fruit on the nose and palate, with blackberries, creme de cassis, leading the way. Kicking in next are the mocha notes, the violets, with a sensuous texture. Underneath these are the notes that give it an amazing structure as well as being upfront pretty: lead pencil, river stones, and just a hint of tar. It’s a winner!

Tree of Life – Sinskey ‘Aries’ Pinot Noir 2009 – Carneros, California ($28)sinskeyAriesWEB
The complications of the modern world and loss are the focus of this ambitious though very human film. One incredible sequence depicts our world forming, reminding us of both our place in the universe and the need to appreciate our planet. Nothing shows that appreciation more than organic and biodynamic practices, such as those practiced by Robert Sinskey. A native Californian, Robert has been practicing organic and biodynamic farming since 1991. He and his team hold the strongest beliefs that artisanal winemaking begins with the care of the land – they source 75% of their energy from solar power. The 2009 ‘Aries’ Pinot Noir from Los Carneros is a bright, juicy, earthy, and very special wine. Cherries and plums jump out on the nose leaving subtle spice and silky texture and find balance in mouthwatering acidity and tannins. Berry, cherry and spice aromas beckon. Woven in are raspberry and black cherry fruit accented by clove, vanilla and cinnamon.


Jacky Blot, Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, and Domaine de la Butte

Monday, August 15th, 2011

oldVinesCheninI had the true pleasure of visiting Jacky Blot and Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups, in Montlouis, in the Loire Valley last week. I was slightly nervous as Jacky seems to have become a bit of a superstar in recent years. When I talked to the importer about setting up an appointment, the first response was “Ohhhh, you want to visit Jacky Blot? Hmmm …”. So my reverence level was (appropriately) high going into the visit. A superstar he definitely is [he was just awarded Winemaker of the Year by the prestigious French publication Bettane & Desseauve’s ‘Reader’s Grand Prix’] but he is also charming and gracious.

With our morning visit to another winery, my son, who is 9, soon tired of looking at vineyards (we are on a family vacation that coincidentally includes a few wine regions in France). So it was just my daughter who accompanied me – with the hope that between the two of us we would be able to talk with Jacky (my understanding of French is passable when the subject is wine, and she is actually able to translate and speak some French). His English is better than our French combined though so most (but not all!) of the conversation was in English.

This is Chenin Blanc country. I am of the opinion that Chenin holds its own and is right up there with Riesling (and Gruner Veltliner!) as one of the true noble white wine grapes. It has the versatility to produce dry, sweet, and sparkling wines, and the wines can age for extremely long periods. I was about to find out how great Chenin can really be.

Soil in vineyard

Soil in vineyard

We set off to first see the vineyards. Jacky’s holdings have gradually increased over the last 20-plus years (he acquired his first 8 hectares in 1989). He was like a boy with a new toy with his new vineyard, which adds 20 hectares, bringing his total to about 60 hectares. It will take a few years for him to turn this vineyard into exactly what he wants it to be – the first year he only expects to get about 10-20% of what this vineyard will ultimately give him. Not because he will increase yields – on the contrary – but he will slowly rework the vines to be where he wants. He is an exacting man, and one with a vision. Plowing, training, and harvesting a vineyard so that it produces in line with his vision takes time. It is a ‘Clos’, meaning a walled vineyard. In this case the wall needs some work and he joked that the mason has found a full time job. He also has Clos de Venise, Clos de la Bretonniere, and now Clos Mosny – so a few walls to upkeep! These are all monopoles – owned solely by Jacky Blot.

Jacky himself is incredibly passionate. He does not take short cuts; he does things precisely in a way which he believes will yield the best results, and after tasting his wines, I have to say that whatever he is doing, is working. Beautifully.

When we stopped back at his office to pick up some glasses, my husband and son had just pulled up after their hour tour of Montlouis. The disappointment on Jacky’s face when he thought we wouldn’t have time to taste was not only charming but gave a sense of someone who is justifiably proud of their work. We changed players (my husband had great timing, and joined us for the tasting), and moved to the cellar.

He uses barrels for 10 years – some parcels get evenly divided between new, 1, 2, and 3-year old barrels and some get evenly divided between 10 years worth of barrels.

We tasted out of barrel and got to taste several different vineyards. They each showed their terroir superbly. Same grape, same winemaker, same winemaking methods, but totally different wines. In one the chalkiness was predominant, another had a more earthy tone, and in one there was more fruit (pears and citrus) and nuttiness. All were beautiful. Really gorgeous examples of Chenin Blanc.

Perfect Chenin Blanc grapes

Perfect Chenin Blanc grapes

Blot divides some of his vineyard pickings into different wines – so his 10 Arpents comes from several parcels, but all from the first ‘pass’ through the vineyard. The other passes (with slightly riper grapes) are then destined for his vineyard-designated wines.

After our cellar tasting we headed back to his offices to taste his Triple Zero sparkling and the reds. Triple Zero is so named for the 3 points at which he avoids adding any sugar at all: (1) there is no chaptalization, (2) no sugar is added to induce the secondary fermentation (it is more of a continuous fermentation), and (3) there is no sugar added for the dosage, just more of the same wine. Very cool (even wine geeky!), very good with all kinds of food (it is quite popular in French restaurants), and very delicious. He had little piles of sugar to indicate what would typically be added in a Champagne. It adds up!

The reds are from Domaine de la Butte in Bourgueil. He produces three bottlings: Le Pied de la Butte (from the foot of the hill), Mi-Penti, from the middle, and the Haut de la Butte cuvee is from the upper slope. The first has bright fruit – black cherry and cranberry – with soft tannins and structure. Its purity shines through. Mi-Pente is complex and concentrated and comes from the oldest vines. Great structure, earthy notes, with fruit overlaying it – cherries, blackberries – along with minerals. Beauty, nuance and strength define this wine. The bottle of this that he gave us I confess is not making it back to New York – we opened it when we met up with other family to celebrate my mother’s birthday. This is such a perfect wine to share, whether there is a celebration involved or not! Maslow 6 Wineshop will be getting the Pied and the Mi-Pente in September and I am very excited! We will definitely be doing a tasting when it arrives so stay tuned! [If you are interested in pre-ordering at special prices please email orders@maslow6.com]

Jacky’s wines are all really gorgeous. Pure, intense expressions of their terroir and beautiful illustrations of what Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc from the Loire can be. We were running later than what we had planned and had to make it to Macon that night on our way south. Without a doubt, these wines were worth having to eat dinner at a French roadside café and not arrive at our hotel that night until 11 PM.